Renting a vehicle has become the most popular way of getting around in Tibet.

Tourists are not permitted to drive rental vehicles in China; however , on Tibet's roads you're not likely to mind. There is currently only one agency in Lhasa authorized to deal with vehicle rental, although this may change in the future.Prices depend largely on the kilometers driven(roughly Y3.50 per kilometre) not thhe time taken, meaning that you can often add an extra day to our itinerary for the same cost. If you are not returning with your vehicle(from Lhasa to the Nepali border, for example you can expect to pay an extra 50% of the one-way hire rate for the vehicle to return empty. Prices are higher on trips where a permit and both guide and driver are needed. Guide fees are normally calculated at Y150 per day.

Toyota Land Cruisers are the most widely seen rented vehicles plying the high plateau loaded with backpackers. They have room for six people and their luggage, although five is more comfortable. Three can go in the back, two in the front and there is often a fold-down seat in the boot. For longer trips where a guide is required it's worth limiting the number of passengers in a Land Cruiser to four(plus the guide) as any more than that is a real grind. Beijing Jeeps are cheaper but can only hold around four people with their luggage, which ends up making them more expensive per person. Pajero jeeps are the choice of high-ranking party cadres and so are hard to find. Renting a minibus with 20 or more seats really spreads the costs around- but who can be bothered looking for 19 other travel companions? The best place to hire vehicles is Lhasa.

Before organizing a vehicle, check the notice boards at the main budget hotels. There are usually dozens of notices advertising seats on trips to all quarters of Tibet. The most popular destinations are the Nepali border, Nam-tso, Drigung Til and Mt Kailash, and there will probably be a few notices about more-obscure destinations. Actually hiring a vehicle is subject to all kinds of pitfalls. If possible, it is a good idea to reach an agreement that payment be delivered in two instalments:one before setting off and one on successful completion of the trip. This gives you more leverage in negotiating a refund if your trip was unsuccessful. Drawing up a contract in English and Tibetan or Chinese is a good idea, but carries much less weight in Tibetan than it would elsewhere in the world. Keep contracts short and to the point. List your exact ininerary, the price and method of payment,clauses that prevent the driver from picking up"friends"and "relatives" en route are useful if you do not want to be squeezed by freeloaders.

Above all, get together with the driver before the trip and go through the main points of the contract verbally. You are likely to have far fewer problems if you can reach friendly terms with your driver by treating him with respect-giving him some cigarettes or some kind of small gift-rather than waving a contract in his face.